A 10-minute drive is all it takes to escape the city for heartening Italian food, surrounded by plenty of greenery. Despite its industrial design, it’s a casual setting with an expansive view of the garden. The pizza dough, gnocchi and fettucine are all homemade. The squid fettuccine has an enlivening ponzu dressing; and the baked snow fish in a buttery fish broth   beats all expectations with large, slow-cooked pieces that are meltingly soft in a sweet, homemade broth.