Word has it that this century-old shop is the bona fide original source of the world-famous Sichuan dish known as mapo tofu, invented by Lady Chen. Silky tofu, ground beef and spices are cooked in a stone pot that retains the heat and is perfect with a bowl of steamed rice. For a luxury version, try mapo tofu with long snout catfish or abalone; the former imbues the river fish and seafood with spicy, numbing heat. Also try lotus leaf-wrapped steamed pork.