There's a wonderfully rustic feel to this relaxed restaurant where the buzz of contented diners bounces off the exposed brick walls and fills the room, right up to the vaulted ceiling. The cooking is unpretentious and accessible, with the chef excelling in taking less glamorous cuts and adding the right accompaniments to produce original dishes that are packed with flavour – like slow-cooked pork cheeks with smoked black pudding, creamed parsnip and apple ketchup. The friendly, infectiously joyful service really adds to the experience.