You get a good feeling about this intimate, personally run restaurant from the moment you arrive and are greeted by the chefs in the open kitchen. Go for the longer of the tasting menus and you won’t regret your decision, as passionate local chef Tom Waters and his team show a great understanding of flavour and balance across dishes founded upon the bountiful Welsh larder – from seaweed and seafood to beetroot and beef rib. The service is genial and unobtrusive, perfectly befitting such an impressive operation.