Esquirou – "squirrel" in Gascon – is run by a young couple who met at the Institut Paul Bocuse: in the kitchen, Émilie Cristofari, who trained under Alain Passard, and sommelier Lucas Drancourt front of house. In a simple traditional regional house, the rattan accents, pale parquet flooring and cherry-red zellige tiles on the bar foster a retro bistro vibe. The chef delivers a short menu of indulgent, bistro-style sharing plates centred on local produce – sustainably caught fish, organic vegetables from Capbreton – as in her hake parpaillettes with parsley and garlic. The wine list features several hundred biodynamic or natural wine producers.