When the chef-owner’s family runs a wholesale seafood business, you can guarantee that her menu will be based on great fish and shellfish dishes, with enough choices to keep everyone happy – and at prices that keep everyone returning. Don’t miss the steamed sea bass with lime, or the stir-fried squid with salted egg. It’s a huge operation with four dining areas, but it’s run with reassuringly calm efficiency. Even with all this space, arrive early on weekends to avoid a long wait.