Once off the main road, follow a series of twists and turns uphill to reach the village of Acquapartita, at an altitude of almost 800m, where you’ll find one of the best restaurants in the region. Modern dining rooms with an open kitchen provide the setting for top-quality dishes with a focus on local ingredients such as mushrooms, trout and game. Front of house, the chef’s friendly and skilful brother oversees an encyclopaedic wine list – two volumes featuring almost 1 600 labels.