This smart 19C townhouse, on the way into the Teinturiers neighbourhood and thus sheltered from the crowds around the Palais des Papes, boasts a lush green gravel patio-courtyard home to mosaic tables and wrought-iron chairs. The concise score revolves around traditional, Provençal-led, market-fresh cooking, like lamb shepherd’s pie spiked with thyme. The lunchtime menu is a steal.