The family-run hotel-restaurant set in the Gorges de l'Allier overlooks the bridge and the river. Philippe and Michelle Brun are handing over the reins to the fourth generation, Clément, their son, and his partner, Camille, the perfect hostess. The locally rooted score continues to celebrate the bountiful produce of this unspoilt countryside: wild herbs and mushrooms, plants from the garden, locally-reared meat and fish. It is a treat to dig into painstakingly crafted, unusual dishes, such as confit salmon with courgettes and a stock made with river mint, or an amazing dessert starring dark chocolate, olives and wild fennel, delicately assembled into a mouthwatering and savvily balanced culinary feat.