The high mountainous Corbières in the Aude region, bordering the Eastern Pyrenees, overlooks the Fenouillèdes, home to the "citadels in the sky" (Peyrepertuse, Quéribus, Puilaurens, Aguilar and Termes), which witnessed the dramatic Cathar history. The spiny, aromatic scrubland is as austere and unpretentious as its inhabitants. Vineyards carpet the valleys, dotted with wineries, as at Durban-Corbières and Fitou.